Le Puy-en-Velay to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port by Bicycle

This is the photo/prose diary of our September 2009 Camino by bicycle on the French Podensis route from Le Puy to St Jean, and onward by train to Lourdes, Toulouse, and Lyon. We arrived in Lyon from our home in Walla Walla, Washington after some 12 hours of flying that included stops in Seattle and Amsterdam.

Thursday, 3 September--Lyon to Le Puy-en-Velay. After a night's rest in Lyon (where cheap hotels are hard to find) we took the train first to St Etienne and on up the Loire Valley to the medieval city of Le Puy, the starting point for the most heavily travelled medieval route in France leading to the Pilgrim destination of Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Here is a photo of the interesting train station in St Etienne and the town's memorial to the resistance movement and those deported to concentration camps in World War II. St Etienne was named after St Stephen the Martyr. Etienne is derived from the Greek word Stephanos.

St. Étienne was once the capital of the French bicycle industry. The bicycle wheel manufacturer Mavic is based in the city and frame manufacturers Motobecane and Vitus are also based here. The city often hosts a stage of the Tour de France.

Friday, 4 September--In Le Puy
As we did in 2008, we decided against bringing our bikes from home because of fees charged by the airlines. Also, once again, we purchased Rockrider 5.0 bikes from the French-owned Decathlon Sport store, this time in Le Puy. They are pretty decent bikes for the price and served us well on the trip. We spent a good bit of the day adding pannier racks etc. getting the bikes ready for the trip. Here they are with Yvonne. Before leaving Le Puy we attended the Pilgrims' Mass at the Cathedral and took in many of the amazing sights in this beautiful town. Here are some views of the Cathedral.

And a view of both the Cathedral and the massive statue of Notre Dame de France.Inside the Cathedral. A very nice statue of Santiago--St Jacques in French--in the Cathedral. There are relatively few statues of St Jacques along the Podensis compared to the numerous statues of the French favorite, St Roch (St Roque in Spain).Above the altar in the Cathedral stands a relatively small statue of the much venerated Black Madonna, one of a number of such statues in France.A Lovely statue of Ste Ann.And an interesting plaque dedicated to the clergy of the diocese who lost their lives during the French Revolution.Two views of Notre Dame de France--made from melted cannons from the battle of Sebastopol--atop one of huge volcanic plugs in Le Puy.
Another major volcanic feature supports L'Eglise de Saint-Michel d'Aiguilhe.A short distance from the town of Le Puy stands this monumental statue of St Joseph atop yet another volcanic plug
We were graciously received at the Gite le Relais du Pelerin Saint Jacques where we stayed for two nights. The Gite is hosted by volunteers from all over France who are dedicated to making Pilgrims feel welcome. Here's the Gite's entrance.And the kitchen where breakfast is served along with the hospitality.

Saturday, 5 September--Le Puy to Monistrol--30 Kilometers.This day started with an 18-kilometer-long grind uphill--tough but ridable even for us old folks. We had planned stay at St Privat, but were refused entry in the widely respected Gite because we were cycling the Camino, somewhat suprising from a gite that touts itself as striving to meet the hospitality standards of the medieval Camino. More puzzling is that they accept pilgrims who are horseback. In any event, we went on to Monistrol and stayed at the Hotel Le Pain de Sucre where the friendly English owner is very helpful.

A Statue of St Jacques at a roundabout on the way to St Privat.On the other side of the same roundabout, there is this statue carved from volcanic rock of the mythic monster Gevaudan that ate both animals and people in the Middle Ages!Here's the entry into St Privat.This classic statue honoring the French dead in WWI stands in the town square in Bains. We saw many of these. Sunday, 6 September--Monistrol to Saugues--18 Kilometers. A very short but also very steep day. We stayed at the very nice Gite La Margeride.

A photo of the Allier River in Monistrol...
...taken from the Eiffel Bridge, one of the many built throughout France by builder of that famous tower in Paris.
Some Photos on the way to Saugues. The first three are along the incredibly steep hill just out of MonistrolThis next photo is looking down at the Chapelle de Notre Dame de d'Estours We happened to be there the day of the annual celebration of the site, but missed most of the activities because it took us so long getting up the hill out of Monistrol. The Chapel houses one of the most beautiful of the so-called "Black Madonnas" of France.
Monday, 7 September--Saugues to St Alban sur Limagnole--37 Kilometers. This was another day of predominantly uphill climbing, with only about 11 or 12 kilometers level or downhill. Here we stayed at La Maison du Pelerin, run by the Connan family. Jean-Marc and Francoise endeavor to recreate the hospitality of the Middle Ages, and provide family-style dinner and breakfast to their guests. Quite wonderful people!

Some photos on the way to St Alban

Thirteenth Century Esplantas Castle A very old cattle working chute
Crucifixes of all sizes are the predominant roadside statues in this part of France

Roadside Chapelle de St RochThe wonderful gite in St Alban. . .
. . . and the abandoned bike in the back yard.The XIth Century Eglise de St Alban

A satirical poster of Sarkozy and Villepin in a St Alban bar. Don't know what the point is, but clearly there's some serious mockery going on!Francoise & Jean-Marc and their sons at the head of the table at dinner for pilgrims. Tuesday, 8 September--St Alban to Nasbinals--40 Kilometers. Some hills and some rollers on this nice day, first through forest and then through cattle country. We stayed in the communal gite, which was in a school that still had some active classes. Private room, great location, super clean, friendly hospitalier.

Here are photos on the way to Nasbinals
La Chapelle de la SaletteThe Pilgrim Church at NasbinalsThe morning we leftNasbinals, there was a bull sale getting started. These heavily muscled monsters are just a bit over a year old!

Wednesday, 9 September--50 Kilometers--Nasbinals to Estaing. It was a very steep 10 kilometers up, followed by 18 kilometers down an even steeper hill, followed by 8 kilometers down that was so steep we had to repeatedly stop to let our wheels cool, as they became too hot even to touch. The last 14 kilometers consisted of relatively easy rollers through Espalion and on into Estaing. We found the Hospitalite St Jacques full, but one of the volunteers arranged for us to stay in the spare bedroom of a nice lady in town. Estaing is quite nice despite being crowded with tourists.

The mountain top village of Aubrac
The Convent that welcomes you to the valley of the Lot and the village of St Come d'OltSt Come's famous twisted church spire, one of several such spires in Europe.
Stanislaus, a very nice young Frenchman with an improbable Polish name. Stanislaus started out with us in Le Puy, but had walked too fast and hard, leaving him with injured feet.Castle ruins on the way to Estaing
Medieval bridge at Estaing
Estaing Castle, purchased by Valery Giscard and his brother in 2005, presumably to cement a claim to nobility that was launched by Giscard's grandfather took the name Estaing in 1922.

Thursday, 10 September--Estaing to Conques--50 Kilometers. We decided against going the hilly route to Conques, and took the road along the River Lot instead. It was quite a easy ride except for the last bit of climbing up to the medieval village of Conques. Conques is a major French tourist attraction, and prices for everything are high. The Abbey of St Foy, has 96 beds for pilgrims and hikers, but was completely full both nights we were there. We spent our first night at the very nice communal gite, and the second at a very overpriced gite on the edge of town.

First, some scenes along the Lot








The Chateaux in the village of Entraygues where the Truyere River joins the Lot.
The 11th to 13th Century Château fort de Vieillevie in the village of VieillevieArriving in Conques nestled in the hills above the River Lot.
A typical Conques street

Stella and Robin from Glasgow who cooked a wonderful meal at the Communal Gite.
The Tympanum at the Eglise Saint Foy






The Abbey
Saturday, 12 September--Conques to Cassagnole via Figeac--55 Kilometers. After a rest day inConques, we headed down the hill back to the Lot. We stopped in Grand Vabre on the River for breakfast as a nice little hotel run by a Dutch couple. They maintain a room for pilgrims at a very favorable rate, which beats the prices in Conques if you're not able to get into the Communal Gite or the Abbey. The route leaves the Lot at Capdenac and climbs over a very steep hill, followed by an even steeper hill down into Figeac and the valley of the Cele River. We had planned to stay in Figeac, but found there was a fair going on, which meant there were no rooms of any sort available in the town. We decided to cycle on to Cassagnole where we stayed at a very nice gite back up in the mountains again--Le Relais St Jacques--run by Jesus and Marie-Claude Gomez.

Some scenes along the way to Figeac

We met these very nice French Pilgrims in Las Cassagnole.
Sunday, 13 September--Cassagnole to Marcilhac-Sur-Cele--34 Kilometers. We had to backtrack a ways toward Figeac and eventually crossed to the north side of the Cele. Basically a flat ride along the river all the way to Marcilhac. We stayed at the Gite Accueil Saint-Pierre, and had the place to ourselves. Quite a nice place with a complete kitchen and comfortable beds in small rooms.

Remains of the 13th Century Priory of Val Paradis in the tiny village of Espagnac-St EulaliePilgrim statue in Espagnac-St Eulalie


The ride down the Cele Valley was quite spectacular with Limestone and Granite cliffs on both sides of the narrow valley. Houses and castles were built into the cliffs themselves.

A wide spot in the road provides a good place to have lunch.

Entering the village of Marcilhac-sur-CeleMarcilhac's amazing ruins of the village's once magnificant Benedictine Abbey. The Friends of the Abbey of Marcilhac have placed this inspiring welcome. I'm a terrible translator, but I see the sign as a prayer that encourages the visitor to enjoy this sacred place in peace, to meditate, to pray, or just to rest. After this interlude, it says you should be empowered to continue on your way refreshed, so you may continue on your way full of confidence and hope. It ends with these words: Courage chers amis et bonne route
Here's a little of what you can take in at these marvellous ruins














Monday, September 14--Marcilhac to St. Cirq-Lapopie--26 Kilometers. It was back down the Cele Canyon on this day to where it runs into the Lot. Very easy day except for the steep ride up into St Cirq after crossing the lot. Interesting ride through some tunnels. Met a large group of Americans on tandem bikes on a supported ride. The gite is very nice, but the town is full of tourists--mostly English.

Some photos on the way to St. Cirq.











Looking down on the River Lot from St CirqThe very nice Gite d'etape Communal La Fourdonne in St Cirq
St Cirq's 15th Century Romanesque Church

Tuesday, 15 September--St Cirq to Cahors--35 Kilometers. This day we ride to one the few fairly large towns on the Podensis. A fairly easy ride, with quite a bit of traffic on the last few kilometers getting into Cahors. Stayed at the Gite d'etape Le Relais des Jacobins situated in an old house across the river from the main part of the city, and one of the more crowded places we stayed in. We liked Cahors a lot, and found it much more interesting than the touristy places like Conques and St. Cirq. Here we also met our first American Pilgrim, a woman from Tallahassee.

Crossing back to the north side of the Lot.


Note the sign which says "we try to speak English." In fact they spoke excellent English, a wise move with so many English tourists about. Our experience suggests that the fabled French resistance to speaking anything but French is changing. Also, we found no one who objected to our unskilled use of the beautiful French language.

A rare tobacco warehouse--one of only two we saw on the entire trip.Two photos of a beautiful little church on the way to Cahors


This is the very harried hospitalier of the gite des Jacobins--cooking for a house full of pilgrims.

This next set of pictures is of the very unique and beautiful 12th Century Cathedral of St Etienne in Cahors.













Wednesday, 16 September--Cahors to Lauzerte--41 Kilometers. Uphill out of Cahors and then through rough country followed by beautiful farm valleys growing grapes and sunflowers--and melons, the region's specialty. Finally, a very steep hill up into the medieval city of Lauzerte.

This old Camino marker is near the Pont Valentre--shown in the next set of photos.

Construction of the bridge, a classic of medieval fortified structure designed to protect the city from forces coming up the river, was begun in 1308. Here's how it looked on the foggy morning we left Cahors.




Stopping for a rest on the way to Lauzerte

Going through Lascabanes at the top of the hill after leaving Cahors.Riding up the long green valley on the way to Lauzerte

Lauzerte from a distance
Crucifix at the entry to Lauzerte
Two photos of the central square in Lauzerte
We loved the whimsical upturned corner
The view from our window at the Gite Communal


Thursday, 17 September--Lauzerte to Moissac--28 Kilometers. Flat or downhill nearly the entire day until a very steep 5 kilometers up to the lovely village of Sainte Thecle. Then down through vinyards and orchards into Moissac.

A couple of shadow photos leaving Lauzerte

The hotel in Ste. Techle where we stopped for a rest and a cool one.
L'Eglise de Sainte Thecle
Cooling towers of a nuclear power plant that was on our horizon for several days.
The famous and wonderfully sweet Chasselas Grapes--a specialty of this area.
Moissac's breathtaking Abbaye de Saint Pierre. There are so many amazing photos on the internet of the stone carvings on this edifice that I hesitate to put my own simple snapshots up. Perhaps they will lead you to check out these two sites for starters: www.bluffton.edu/~sullivanm/.../moissac/stpierre/intro.html
www.paradoxplace.com/.../Moissac.../Moissac/Moissac.htm




A wonderful polychrome work inside the Abbey Church

The view from our window of the extremely nice Gite Ancien Carmel

Friday, 18 September--Moissac to Miradoux--50 kilometers. We took a wrong turn and didn't realize it for some 10 kilometers, so using our map, we cut through some rather boring farm country to get to Miradoux. Unfortunatley we missed the city of Auvillar, supposed to be one of the more beautiful places on the Chemin. It was rather gloomy most of the day with occasional showers. Decent riding most of the day except for the last 15 or so kilometers, which included a sharp climb up to Bardigues, Flamarens, and finally Miradoux. However, we were rewarded with one of those real special occasions that happen on the Camino--this time at the home of Theresa Pardo, who welcomes Pilgrims into her home with the kind of hospitality one expects from close family members.

Here are some pictures of Bardigues, including this classic WWI memorial.


The long neglected Chateaux de Flamarens, which is now undergoing restoration thanks to a strong community effort.




Here's the home of Therese Pardo, who welcomes Pilgrims with exceptional hospitality.

Here's our group at Theresa'sSome photos of the beautiful 14th century church in Miradoux



The circus was in town while we were in Miradoux

Saturday, 19 September--Miradoux to Condom--40 kilometers. I rained off and on all day, occasionally very heavy. The route was very difficult with one steep hill after another. We stayed at the Gite Communal, which is located on the second floor of a large school. We are now into Armagnac country. We arrived in Condon cold, wet, and tired and saw very little of the town.

Here are some photos on the way to Condom, including the beautiful Cathédrale Saint-Gervais-et-Saint-Protais de Lectoure. This lovely lady was perched on a gatepost leading to someone's house.Cathédrale Saint-Gervais-et-Saint-Protais

Sainte Jacques


Armagnac grapes
Cathédrale Saint-Pierre de Condom


Sunday, 20 September--Condom to Eauze--32 Kilometers. Heavy rain much of the day, but an easier ride than the day before despite the many hills. The weather was too lousy for many photographs, although we did get a few at the medieval walled city of Larresingle. We stayed at the home of Pauline and Marcel, a young couple with a new baby who have devoted
their lives to serving pilgrims.

Larresingle

The Burgundian warrior king, St Sigismond--an appropriate patron for this fortified town.
A hunter and his enthusiastic bird dogs
Dinner with Pauline & Marcel

Monday, 21 September--Eauze to Aire-Sur-L'Adour--42 Kilometers. Long easy hills most of this day. We stayed at Hospitalet Saint-Jacques, which is the home of Odile and Andre, who make their own pilgrimage every year in the late fall and winter. This was one of the very nicest and well-kept Gites we'd ever seen.

On the way we went through Nogaro, which sports a very nice bull ring.

Inside Nogaro's 11th Century St Nicholas Collegiate Church

Remains of a Medieval Hospital for Pilgrims
Odile & Andre of Hospitalet Saint-Jacques in Aire-sur-l'Adour. Aire was the residence of the kings of the Visigoths. In 506, Alaric II drew up his famous code, the Breviarium Alaricianum.
Dinner at Odile & Andre's
Eglise de Sainte-Quitterie in Aire.


Tuesday, 22 September--Aire -sur-l'Adour to Arzaq--37 Kilometers. Foggy, cool, and overcast all day. We had to cross a road construction site along the way which was nothing but a massive mud hole that covered our bikes with gumbo. Not too hilly. Much of the ride was through endless cornfields. We stayed at the Gite Communal, which was very nice.

On the way we passed this ranch that apparently produced fighting bulls.


Here's what our bikes looked like after the mud hole.

And here's the nice lady in the next town who let us use her garden hose to clean the bikes.
Wednesday, 23 September--Arzaq to Maslaq--46 Kilometers. Two long climbs at the start, and another on the way into Arthez, but fairly easy overall. Stayed at the Communal Gite.

With no large rock in this farm country, everything was built with this very small stones.


This sign--inviting pilgrims in for a drink and a snack--is at someone's home along the way.


A fellow cyclist we met along this morning!
A nice spot for lunch.

We got a bit lost at one point and ended up on this trail
But these French mountain bikers showed us the way.

Thursday, 24 September--Maslaq to St Palais--56 Kilometers. Some killer hills this day, but some of the most beautiful and fun cycling of he entire trip. We stayed at the Maison Franciscaine, and large, very friendly former monastery manned by Camino volunteers.

Leaving Maslaq, we came upon the 12th-13th Century Sauvelade Abbey...


...with this nice old statue of St Jacques, a magnet for prayers left by Caministas.



Friday, 25 September--St Palais to St Jean-Pied-de-Port--32 Kilometers. St Jean is a traditionsl starting point of the Camino Frances which goes over the Pyranees and across Spain to Santiago de Compostela. We stayed at the very nice but crowded Refugio Municipal. We managed to sell our bikes--for a fairly decent price--at a bike shop in St Jean.

The only Basque independence sign we saw on the entire trip. Apparently the French Basques are not as active as they are in Spain.

Basque language olitical poster featuring Sarkozy and his Interior Minister Michelle Alliot-Marie

A young Basque dairy farmer who invites pilgrims in for a rest, some coffee, cheese, yogurt, and cakes. The French family dairy is facing difficult times--as happened in America--becuase of the growth of massive industrial dairies. He had just gone through an agonizing week of dumping all of his milk along with other family farmers to protest the dramatic decline in milk prices.


We finally arrive in St Jean and almost immediately run into Martin Sheen and his son Emilio Estevez who are making a film about the Camino. He was very friendly. We ran into him three more times during the day, and each time he made a point of coming over to visit with us.
We met this very friendly East Asian couple in St Jean (we never knew exactly where they were from).
Had dinner with this Dutch cyclist. Martin Sheen's party was just behind us.
A typical street in St Jean
And the entrance to the excellent Gite.
A section of one of the many walls in this formerly heavily fortified town.

Saturday, 26 September--train to Bayonne and back to Lourdes. This is the grungy one-car train we took to Bayonne to connect with a train to Lourdes, Toulouse and Lyon.
The "in the town" Cathedral in Lourdes
Castle in Lourdes

A view of Lourdes from Gite Accueil St Jacques.Jean-Louis Doux, owner of the Gite. . .

. . . And breakfast with fellow Pilgrims and Anita--at the head of the table--the morning we left Lourdes. Anita also fixed us wonderful French meals the two nights we were privileged to stay at this amazing Pilgrims Gite.
After mass at the underground Basilica in Lourdes. Here was saw in action what we believe is the true miracle of Lourdes--the extraordinary loving care that the volunteers give to the disabled, sick, and the dying who make their pilgrimage to Lourdes.
The Cathedral in what is called the "Sanctuary" at Lourdes. Outside the Sanctuary, the place can be pretty commercial and tacky.
We happened upon this military memorial service at a war memorial in Lourdes.



28 September--In Toulouse. Inside the Cathedral of St Sernin.



Classic statue of St Roch
Capitole de Toulouse
A bust of Jean Jaures inside the Capitole. Jaures was a French Socialist leader. Initially an Opportunist Republican, he evolved into one of the first social democrats, becoming the leader, in 1902, of the French Socialist Party. An antimilitarist, Jaurès was assassinated at the outbreak of World War I, and remains one of the main historical figures of the French Left. (from wikipedia)

Murals in the Salle des illustres

The train station in Toulouse. We found Toulouse to be a very accessible city and enjoyed our day there very much.
29 September, train Toulouse to Lyon.

Therese of Avila